“More publications have outlined the use of Microneedling for acne scarring than for any other skin condition” 1
About Microneedling for Acne
Microneedling (MN) is also known as percutaneous collagen induction (PCI) or collagen induction therapy. A search in PubMed, Google Scholar, or any of the large medical databases, will pull up hundreds of research papers and clinical studies about the use of MN to reduce acne and reduce acne scars. MN has been shown to increase circulation to your face and boost both collagen and elastin production in your skin.2 After MN treatments, the new collagen that is laid down is more even compared to the irregular lattice which develops from acne damage.
How does Microneedling work?
I use what’s called an electronic pen, with an oscillating sterile tip of 12 mini-needles. These tiny needles gently make shallow (0.5 mm-1 mm) micro-penetrations to the topmost layer of your skin. Scientific research has repeatedly shown that these micro conduits do NOT damage your skin or cause scarring.3,4 Multiple studies indicate that these “micro-injuries” stimulate your body’s fibroblast cells in the dermis to ramp up the process of creating collagen and elastin.5
Why Microneedling Works for Acne and Acne Scars
“MN triggers regenerative mechanisms and activates non-inflammatory wound healing in the treated skin…Biopsies of the treated sites showed an epidermal thickening and increased deposition in a normal woven pattern.” 5
Microneedling stimulates your skin to create new, smoother collagen so that it appears less uneven or irregular.6 From the standpoint of Oriental Medicine, Acupuncturists view MN as a tool to vent what is called “damp heat” and promote healthy skin. Damp heat is a physical pattern that Acupuncturists have identified and treated for thousands of years.
Acne can lead to infection and lesions in the epidermis—the topmost layer of your skin. It also damages the oil and hair follicles in the dermal (deeper) level of your skin.
There are many destructive things happening to your skin in general when you suffer with acne: bacteria collect around hair roots; sebum production increases; infection brews. While all of these factors are occurring, collagen destruction is happening and therefore the skin’s surface becomes scarred. To add insult to injury, acne makes the inflammatory or healing process last longer so it takes more time for the infections to resolve.7
How Conventional Medicine Treats Acne
“To date, treatment of atrophic acne scars remains a therapeutic challenge for dermatologist(s) yet there is no standard option on the most effective treatment.”8,9
The conventional acne treatments include things such as chemical peels, dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, fillers, antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antiandrogens and isotretinoin. There are also what are called ablative medical procedures. Ablative treatments often heat up the uppermost layers of the skin and partially remove the epidermis in an effort to stimulate new skin growth. The known risks of most of the above treatments include: papillary dermis fibrosis, pigmentation irregularities, and the worsening of scarring.10
In my clinic, I regularly use what is called blue and yellow wavelength light therapy. Light therapy is painless and does not heat up your skin. Both Microneedling and light therapy have shown to significantly decrease bacteria counts, inflammation and sebum production.11
I do not use ablative procedures, chemical peels or pharmaceuticals. Fortunately, when combining blue and yellow wavelength light therapy with Microneedling, this reduces bacteria and inflammation and controls the damage acne does to your skin.12
Scars from acne can also be caused by collagen destruction. These 3 types of acne scars can occur:
Boxcar scars Circular depressions with defined edges, shaped like a mini contact lens
Rolling scars Sequences of raised areas that flow into one another
Ice pick scars Small, round spots that can appear darker than surrounding skin
Microneedling has been shown to be an effective treatment for both Boxcar scars and Rolling scar areas.13, 14 Most research indicates that best results are achieved after 5-8 Microneedling sessions, with recorded improvements ranging from 50-70% .15 MN sessions are done once every 4 weeks to allow your skin time for recovery and remodeling as well as generation of collagen. Nanoneedling and cosmetic acupuncture can be done and are recommended in between microneedling sessions. Please see my pages on Nanoneedling and Cosmetic Acupuncture.
“Each micro lesion is perceived as an injury but the epidermal layer is minimally disrupted so scarless wound healing occurs.”16
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